Whites beyond Chardonnay!

 - Emily Davenport 

The 2003 Vintage produced high quality fruit for most vineyards, as we are now seeing reflecting in some top class wines. The drought, over the last 12 months, left many vineyards with reduced yields. This low cropping, for many, resulted in intensely flavoured fruit with good ripeness.

This single grape varietal with its two quite starkly different wine styles is certainly a fast rising star on the Mornington Peninsula.

Pioneered by T’Gallant winemakers, Kathleen Quealy and Kevin McCarthy, there are now more than a dozen producers of these wines locally.

Pinot Gris, as the grape variety is called, quite literally means Pinot Grey. The vine is a white grape mutation of Pinot Noir, hence the grey referring to the grey skin of the grapes.

In basic terms the differing French and Italian ways handling of this grape variety has led to two recognised and very distinct wine styles – what we see labelled as Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio.

Pinot Gris, the French style, is picked relatively late in the season when the fruit is at full ripeness. It is made as a fuller bodied, higher alcoholic style, than Pinot Grigio, with an emphasis on palate weight, extract and mouth feel and less on fruit flavour and aroma. The wine flavours and aromas can be described as reminiscent honey, violets, dried pear, pineapple, quince or stone fruits, the palette is often rich with fatness and viscosity.

To experience Pinot Gris on the Peninsula track down cellar doors such as T’Gallant, Barrymore Estate, Elgee Park, The Garden Vineyard and Maritime Estate.

Pinot Grigio, a style reminiscent of the Italian way of handling Pinot Gris grapes, is picked earlier in vintage than Pinot Gris when the fruit is less ripe. Pinot Grigio usually has higher acidity, a lighter body and fresh fruit flavour. Often described as minerally and savoury key descriptors include perfume, quince, minerals, almond, apple and grapefruit. Pinot Grigio producers on the Peninsula include T’Gallant, Barrymore Estate, Ermes Estate and Miceli.

Arneis is an almost extinct grape variety native to the Piedmont region in North West Italy.

Championed by Garry Crittenden at Dromana Estate Arneis has delicate fruit flavour redolent of Pear Juice & some spiciness. Dromana Estate are producing Arneis on the Peninsula and frequently sell out early such is the fascination with this emerging white!

Viognier can hardly be described as an emerging varietal at Elgee Park in Merricks North as they planted the first vines on the property in

1975, though it took until 1995 before any Viognier became available at Elgee for commercial release. Traditionally Viognier is from the Northern Rhone Valley in France and French Condrieu as it is known is generally one of the most expensive and sought after wines in the world! Many in Australia believe that Viognier will be the next white variety to take the world by storm! Viognier is rich and full bodied with relatively low natural acidity. Flavour descriptors include honeysuckle, lime, lemon, cashew, dried apricot, mineral and gunflint.

Sauvignon Blanc is hardly a secret on the Peninsula as our local winemakers are producing some excellent examples. Fresh & lively in both fruit flavour & acidity Sauvignon Blanc descriptors include cut grass, green bean, gooseberry, passionfruit & tropical fruit. This year’s vintages are hitting the market as we speak key producers to look for include Willow Creek, Dromana Estate, Mt Eliza Estate, Manton’s Creek, Barrymore Estate & Stonier Wines.

Riesling has now been grown on the Peninsula for over two decades; there are very few Riesling producers but certainly some great wines. Peninsula Rieslings vary from being flinty and minerally to showing citrus & green apple characters as well as delicate perfumed & floral characters. Explore Rieslings from Mt Eliza Estate, Elgee Park, Karina Vineyard, Elan Vineyard, Tanglewood Estate & Montalto Vineyard & Olive Grove.

Gewürtztraminer is made by local vineyards Tanglewood Estate and Manton’s Creek. A rare find locally these perfumed wines are delicate, floral and spicy. Often exhibiting characters of rose petal, lychee, lime or musk they are a fabulous match with Asian flavours.

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