Meet your MAKER

My agenda is focused more toward the recent ownership changes that have taken place at T’Gallant and what effects we can expect to see upon the operation of the company. Many would consider that a buying in to the Peninsula by one of the world’s big wine conglomerates is a pretty big deal.

McCarthy takes it in his stride and reckons it was a logical step for the company eager to get a toe into the Pinot Gris market. In terms of day to day running, I am assured that nothing has changed. Kevin and Kathleen have committed to spending at least the next two years in control of winemaking and it appears there is little interference from above. I guess it’s case of ‘if it aint broke, why fix it’. T’Gallant has substantial brand equity across all of their varieties and is undoubtedly considered the leader of pinot gris production. Its presence is valued in both retail and restaurant markets and there is hardly a wine list worth being on that isn’t sporting a T’Gallant wine. The boys at Berringer Blass have undoubtedly cottoned on 

to the ability of this brand to introduce new wines and new branding without diluting support for the existing products. It is likely they have also recognised what a key role the T’Gallant restaurant (La Baracca) plays in attracting a loyal brand following. Given the size of the market in residence just one hour from the winery, it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to get a fix on the potential to grow this wine brand.

Back to the subject of pinot gris, and I voice curiosity about what led to this winemaking duo placing so much faith in a variety little known in this country. McCarthy gives all credit for that insightful move to his partner in life as well as winemaking, Kathleen Quealy.

“It was Kathleen’s crystal ball”, says McCarthy. “She has a sense about these things and from the moment she met Max Loder (Charles Sturt University) a mentor/disciple relationship ensued. Loder was the custodian of Pinot Gris knowledge and he willingly passed the mantel to Kathleen.

These were the early days of the McCarthy/Quealy partnerships and a time when the young guns believed that vineyards were necessary evil and winemakers ruled the world.

He soon concluded that vineyards and their management played a crucial role in the resulting wine and the arrogance of his earlier views mellowed.

He now believes that the glory of great wine rests in the ownership of vineyard managers.

McCarthy has a well established appreciation for great wines and is ready with praise for the few he thinks have mastered their making. Rick Kinsbrunner of Giaconda is high on his list and he says, “Tod Dexter is a hero and makes white wine so exquisitely”.

T’Gallant is a dynamic brand and one might wonder from where the continued inspiration comes. Again McCarthy laughs and suggests that he and Kathleen never agree on anything and that most of the great ideas are born of tension. He also pays tribute to their long standing supporters and most significant among that group have been Patrick McCabe and Ken Cato. McCabe has been a great partner and ally of the winemaker and Cato has captured the vision and taken it to new dimensions with his cutting edge label design. The Tribute Pinot Gris was created in honour of McCabe’s contribution and is fittingly dressed in another Ken Cato masterpiece.

Looking around the operation confirms the assumption that years of hard work and the efforts of a dedicated team have gone into creating what some call an overnight success. Since the birth of the brand in 1990, there has been a constant drive toward building the reputation and market awareness for T’Gallant wines. Kevin McCarthy is happy to acknowledge that Kathleen has provided the energy and has been relentless with trade and media. Next issue we will catch up with Kathleen for a first hand account from the ‘other’ T’Gallant winemaker.

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